With thoughts of the ancient Roman ruins of Ephesus, the medieval castlein Bodrum and the once-great cities of Aphrodisias, Hierapolis and Sardisswirling through our heads, we board a one-hour flight from Istanbul toIzmir, a major Turkish port on the Aegean Sea.

During the flight, a German archaeologist, whose long hair has a somewhatbiblical quality, informs us that we are headed smack dab to the centerof world history; civilizations dating from 8,000 B.C., and a region notedas the world's largest open air museum. "If I had the choice of only onelocation in the world to study and research, this would be it," he says.

[IMAGE] A one-hour drive south from Izmir to Ephesus, through fertilevalleys with neatly planted olive trees, orchards and villages where storksare nesting comfortably atop chimneys, we see large columns rising to thesky and the ruined classical city poised as elegantly as a ballet dancer.

Selcuk, two miles west of the site, has a splendid museum with statuaryembracing the history of Ephesus, but who can wait? We head for the site.

The ongoing archaeological excavations, begun in the 1860s, uncoveredan ancient Ionian city noted as the largest and most important in antiquityduring the 1st century A.D., and under Augustus became the first city ofthe Roman province of Asia.

Walking along Marble Way, the main passageway, history and ancient peoplesare suspended in time for a few hours as we try to comprehend the colossalscope of the two-story Celsus Library, (A.D. 110) supported by 16 toweringcolumns, the perfectly intact 24,000-seat theater, the largest in AsiaMinor, the baths, temples, facades, sculptures and chariot tracks thathave been grooved into the marble.

Walk through with a guide, then leisurely retrace your steps with aguidebook. Carry water and wear a large floppy hat. The sun can be unrelenting.

On castle-capped Ayasoluk Hill in Selcuk is the ruined Justinian's 6thcentury Church, or Basilica, of St. John variously associated in the earlymiddle ages with the death or bodily assumption of St. John. Near the basilicais the Isa Bey Mosque appearing like a grounded flying saucer with itstypical Selijuk portal and large dome.

Six miles south is the small, narrow House of the Virgin Mary, thoughtto have been the place where St. John brought the mother of Christ afterthe Crucifixion. Pope Paul VI and Pope John Paul II visited the shrineas do Muslim and Christian pilgrims from throughout the world.

Kusadasi, 12 miles south of Selcuk on the Aegean, and transformed froma lazy fishing village to a thriving cruise ship port, is another basefor travelers exploring the region who would like a taste of nightlifeand the opportunity to mingle with Europeans who are smitten by archaeology.

Following in the footsteps of Alexander The Great, the Crusaders, andother ancient armies, we drive 105 miles south from Kusadasi to Bodrumpast groves of fruit trees, horse-drawn carts and ruins lost in history.We see a crusty 13th century bridge now used by robed ladies when gatheringfirewood; a ruined tower in the middle of a plowed field, sagging wallswhere goats doze and worn marbled paths leading nowhere.

[IMAGE] Bodrum, Turkey's Bohemian version of Spain's Costa del Sol,is a hilly, all-white, sun-bleached town. Its narrow, winding streets arejammed with appealing sidewalk cafes overlooking a glorious natural yachtharbor and dominated by the 1402 Knights of Rhodes castle. Here also isthe Museum of Underwater Archaeology.

During the summer, Bodrum is alive with the "not-quite-jet-set-crowd,"entertained by goofy resort disco music, and harbor-front cafes offeringlive Turkish music as well as the mornings catch. With more bars than mosques,the town, at times, has the feel of Hemingway's Key West or Cabo San Lucasat the tip of Baja.

Visitors can book a cruise along the southeastern coast on the Bodrum-stylewooden, two-masted sailing boats and experience secluded coves and villages,historic sites, and dive in crystal-clear water a stone's-throw from Greece.

[IMAGE] At the great castle that is ensconced on a rocky harbor promenade,you can browse through the world's largest underwater archaeology museum.Artifacts from the Aegean include a 4th century, late Roman shipwreck,a 7th century Byzantine shipwreck, and hundreds of items such as pottery,gold and jewelry retrieved by local sponge divers.

The castle also has a spine-tingling dungeon with all the torture gadgetsintact and towers built at various times by the English, French, Italian,German and Spanish.

Driving inland from Bodrum, we head to Aphrodisias and Pamukkale (pah-MOO-kah-leh),a half-day drive, through the market town of Milas and past rock-strewncanyons, mountain ranges, pine forests and cotton fields.

Wonderfully remote Aphrodisias, site of the huge 30,000 Greco-Romanstadium used for chariot races, thrills us to the bone. A theater withgreat acoustics and the imposing Temple of Aphrodite showcase the Aphrodisiascraftsmen, celebrated throughout the Roman empire for their delicate workin marble.

The museum is bursting with statuary lined up like cadavers frozen inblocks of ice; the head of Apollo; a high priest of Aphrodite, an earthypugilist, a full-body statue of Flavius and scores of others who once wanderedthe land.

At Pamukkale, an hour's drive from Aphrodisias, rock formations, poolsand basins, have been carved into the side of the mountain by salt-laden,hot, spring water. The vistas are among Turkey's best as you look out ata large valley framed by snow-capped mountains and drifting clouds.

Adjoining is Ancient Hierapolis and Lydian tombs where vendors withtheir white embroidery are in stark contrast to massive stone arches.

From Izmir, back on the Aegean, we motor 56 miles east to Sardis, datingfrom 334 B.C. when Alexander the Great took the city. The ruined Templeof Aremis with its 14 columns, a 5th century Christian Temple, an historicRoman road and the adjoining Jewish shops, synagogue and beautifully restoredgymnasium facade are a marvel.

[IMAGE] For all the history, the Turkish people are the number one attraction.A young boy approaches offering an authentic Roman coin. In perfect Englishhe says, "On second thought it's not authentic, but it's a nice souvenir."We couldn't resist. Turkey is a charmer.

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WHEN YOU GO For a variety of tour packages from 1-16 days contact Megatrailsat (800) 547-1211; (212) 888-9422. In Bodrum, Flama Tours offers family-styleAegean Sea cruises; ask for their detailed brochure; Tel. (252) 316-18-42;the Manastir Hotel in Bodrum overlooks the town and is popular with Europeans;the Izmir Hilton in the center of the city is among Turkey's best properties.Tel. (800) 445-8667.

For information contact the Turkish Tourist Offices in Washington D.C.at (202) 429-9844; New York (212) 687-2194; Turkish Airlines at (800) 874-8875.