The interior Aegean region

Inland from the Aegean sea, the fertile soil has endured the passageof many important early civilizations. Today the remains of these culturescan still be seen in the countryside as well as in the cities, towns andvillages. The more recent legacy of Ottoman rule is apparent in the well-preserved,traditional, domestic Turkish architecture, and Ottoman mosques.Leisure-resortshave been built around the region's hot springs, and can accommodate thoseseeking the thermal springs' pleasurable and beneficial effects.

Manisa

An attractive Aegean city,Manisa has preserved several splendid examplesof Seljuk and Ottoman architecture. Endowed by Ayse Sultana, mother ofSuleyman the Magnificent,the Sultan Mosque was built early in the 16thcentury. Every year in April, on the grounds of this mosque a festivalis held celebrating Mesir Macunu, a sticky imperial elixir that reputedlycured the sultan's ailing mother.The 16th century Muradiye Mosque was designedby the great architect Sinan and the adjacent medrese, or theological seminary,today houses the Archaelogical Museum. September is when the annual HarvestFestival begins. The fruit of the vinyards are brought in with great celebration.The region's numerous vineyards produce grapes, dried for export. Southof the city lies the Sipil Dagi National Park, home of the famous "cryingrock" of Niobe. If you travel to the northeast you come to Gordes, a pleasanttown particularly known for its fine carpets. The ruins of ancient Sart(Sardis), once the capital of the Lydian realm of Croesus lies on the SartCayi (Pactole River). Here the first coins were minted.The Temple of Artemisand a restored gymnasium testify to the city's past splendor, as does theimportant third-century A.D. syngogue. On the southern side of Sardis,Mt.Boz offers trekking and other mountain sports. On its south slope, inthe village of Birgi,is the Cakir Aga Mansion, a fine example of traditionalTurkish architecture.

Usak

Historically,Usak was an important carpet weaving center, a role itcontinues to play today. Tourists find the Archaelogy Museum, informativeand interesting. The Kaftanci House Museum with the Ataturk EthnographyMuseum, displays wonderful Usak carpets and kilims; Ataturk resided here.

Afyon

An inaccessible and imposing citadel dating to Byzantine times overlooksthis provincial city. The Archaelogical Museum and the War of IndependenceMemorial reveal Afyon's place in history. Monumental bas-reliefs, a legacyof the Phrygian Kingdom, are carved into rock on hills north of the city.Aslantas is the largest. At Aslankaya lion reliefs are engraved into thesides of the rock. The Acik Hava Muzesi (Open-air Museum) is near the northentrance of the town of Dinar, 100 km south of Afyon. This is the siteof the legendary music contest between Apollo and Marsyas (Pan). Byzantineand Roman gravestones, inscriptions and statues can also be seen here.

Kutahya

Kutahya is one of the oldest Turkish cities, with Turkish traditionsstill being practiced today and important Ottoman architectural monuments,including a castle, mosques, medreses, baths, complexes, mausdeums andmansions. One of the finest mosques is the 14th century Ulu Mosque. KutahyaCastle offers a wonderful, panoramic view of the old town on the westernside of the city. The Kutahya Archaelogy Museum was a medrese in the 14thcentury; it now displays ethnographia, Roman and Byzantine relics, andtiles of Iznik and Kutahya dating back to Ottoman times. Lajos Kossuth,the 19th century Hungarian hero, lived with his family in what is now theKossuth Museum; relics and documents related to Kossuth are displayed inthe museum.

The kilns of Kutahya produced exquisite ceramics in the 16th and 17thcenturies-a craft which lives on today.You can visit the workshops whereskilled artisans produce tiles, plates and bowls renowned for their cobaltblue patterns on a milky white background.

Southwest of Kutahya, is the Roman town of Cavdarhisar (Aezani) wherea theater, stadium and the Temple of Zeus remain. In the same direction,Murat Mountain offers camping facilities and hot springs, amid delightfulscenery. Near Dumlupinar are the Baskomutan National Park and the War ofIndependence memorials.

The South Aegean region

A visit to Efes (Ephesus)-once the commercial center of the ancientworld-is a highlight of any visit to Turkey.The city, whose wealth andpatronage supported its splendid architectural program, was dedicated tothe goddess Artemis. Her enormous temple, once considered one of the SevenWonders of the Ancient World and rebuilt several times, dates in its latestform from the third century B.C. The ruins also include a theater, gymnasium,agora and baths, as well as the Library of Celsus.

The nearby town of Selcuk is dominated by a Byzantine citadel whichstands close to the 6th century basilica of St.John built on the site ofthe Apostle's tomb. The 14th century Isa Bey Mosque, next to the basilicais accessed through its typical Seljuk portal. The Archaelogical Museumhouses an impressive collection of statues and other finds recovered duringthe excavations at Ephesus.

The nearby Turkish Bath Museum, built in the 16th century, shows Turkishlife in the hamam (bath). The Ephesus International Festival is held annuallyin May.

It is documented that St.John brought the Virgin Mary to Ephesus afterthe death of Christ and that she spent her last days in a small house (MeryemanaEvi) built for her on Bulbuldagi (Mt. Koressos). Now a popular pilgrimagesite for Christians and Muslims, the house has received the official sanctionof the Vatican, and Chistians observe the "feast of the assumption of theVirgin Mary" every year on August 15th.

Near Selcuk in Camlik is a TCDD Open-air Steam Locomotives Museum. 9km east of Selcuk is Sirince, known for its traditional 19th century villagehouses, some of which have been converted into guest-houses. Wine is producedin this small hillside Turkish village, which itself resembles an open-airmuseum.18 km from Selcuk are wineries where you can taste the wine producedthere.

Aydin

The province's capital, also called Aydin enjoys a widespread repulationfor its fine figs. Known as Tralles in ancient times, it was at the centerof a celebrated sculpture school. The remains seen today date from thesecond century A.D.After 1186 the town came under Seljuk rule, and thelocal museum displays artifacts from different periods of its history.Back along the coast, Kusadasi, or Bird Island, is a lovely port builtalong the shores of a glittering bay. The terraced town overlooks the mostbeautiful inlet of the Aegean and seems to have been created purely forthe delight of the holiday-maker. Be sure to visit the famous and popularKus shopping center in the Kaleici quarter, where there is nightlong entertainment.A large, modern marina facilitates life for visiting yachtsmen.

Tusan-Kustur Beach, north of Kusadasi lies one of the cleanest beachesand 23 km south of Kusadasi is the charming holiday-resort town of Guzelcamli.West of Guzelcamli and 30 km from Kusadasi, is the Dilek Peninsula NationalPark, and a visit is a must for those with the time. Here amidst incrediblybeautiful surroundings are some of the most wonderful views and some ofthe rarest wild animals in Turkey, including the Anatolian cheetah andsome of Turkey's last wild horses. The park is a wildlife preserve anda haven for many species of animals and birds.

The exquisite Menderes River valley, known in the West as the Meander,has been the cradle of many civilizations. Set amidst pine, olive and oleandertrees, the magnificent Camici (Bafa) Lake is a lovely place to stopover.

Tourists can choose between guest-houses or campsites.To the east ofthe lake rise the five peaks of the Besparmak Mountains. The Iconooclasticpriests of Istanbul who came here to live, built monasteries, churches,and chapels around the base of the mountains and on the lake's islands.The ruins of the ancient city of Heraklia lie close to the lake, whilethe remains of Alinda are found on the eastern slopes of the BesparmakMountains. The valley has witnessed the rise and fall of several greatcities, notably Priene, Miletos, Didyma, Aphrodisias, and Hierapolis.Thispeaceful national reserve is an excellent place for bird-watchers, trekkers,nature-lovers and photographers.

Gullubahce (Priene) was one of the most active ports of the lonian Federation.Thegridlike system of streets introduced in the forth century B.C.by Hippodamosof Miletos is a superb and early example of town planning.

Milet (Miletos), like Priene, was a great lonian port and the birthplaceof several philosophers and sages. The theater justifies a visit, and besure to see the well-

preserved ruins of the Faustina baths and the Archaeological Museum.Although Didim (Didyma) can only boast of a single monument it is neverthelessa marvelous site. The Temple of Apollo was one of antiquity's most sacredplaces. Many times looted and burned, the sanctuary is still impressivewith its elegant beauty. A portico of double collonades surround the colossaltemple. Not far from the archaelogical site, the beautiful beach of Altinkumtempts one with its many guest houses. Akbuk is another holiday resortin the region with nice beach hotels.

Although the history of Geyre (Aphrodisias) stretches back in time,the city, which was dedicated to Aphrodite, goddess of love and fertility,rose to prominence in the first century B.C. Some of the richest treasuresof ancient times were uncovered in the excavations of this city. The publicbuildings are handsomely adorned with marble that was carved with astonishingskill, producing remarkable temples, monuments, baths, a theater and amagnificent stadium.

The reputation of the city's craftsmen for the exquisite finesse oftheir statuary and marble sculpting spread through the civilized world,and Aphrodisias became the center of the greatest sculpting school of antiquity.Many of its marvelous works of art are now housed in the local museum.

The theater and bouleuterion are among the city's best-preserved ruins.

Posted 24 Sep 96